Trad climbing sling length reddit Use the 14-20L summit packs that several companies (Outdoor Research, BD, Petzl etc) sell. Dyneema. I'm always watching trad climbing videos where the leader doesn't use any additional extension on their cams than the sewn sling or using just a short stiff quick draw on their nut placements. After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. For things that are closer to vertical, I don’t mind a gear sling. As for strength between dyneema/nylon, tests have shown that even when wet, neither sling loses enough strength to be a concern, but of the two, dyneema was almost completely unaffected. Make sure to get a few longer draws to help combat rope drag. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). On the up, it can be used to extend. 6 draws and 6 shoulder length slings is pretty standard. Moved Permanently. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. The 8. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. Mar 3, 2023 · In general, we like solid gate carabiners for bolt side and bent gate biners for the lower carabiner on sport climbing draws. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. 4-4, with . Posted by u/Thormunder - 1 vote and 21 comments Dogbones aren't long enough to extend from your placements when trad climbing. Most climbers prefer to rack their gear on their harnesses, but there might be times when you’re short on racking space and a sling over your shoulder is the easiest solution. May 20, 2022 · When you’re following, carefully re-rack the pro as you clean. Here in NC, a lot of trad climbing doesn't have continuous crack (even easy stuff), so the distance between placements might be 10-20 ft, not really something you can aid. The length is given as the end to end distance, so the actual length of fabric will be double this. If you are trad climbing you will probably need four to six 60s, a few 120s and even a 240 or 480. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. From placing/removing gear and proper belay techniques, to how to make an anchor and manage a stuck rope, Intro to Trad Climbing takes the guesswork out of exploring traditionally Don't over-engineer it, on toprope you won't put a lot of stress on an anchor as you'll just be dangling or falling 1-2 m into a lot of rope. With a bunch of Moses, slings, and cams, you can rock climb hard. Right now I have been sport climbing and now how to lead and clean routes, and soon will get into 2-3 pitch of sport only climbing. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. If you extend a piece four The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. 5 trad draws (shoulder length slings + 2 snapgates for each) 2-3 double length slings Quadruple length sling or cordelette + 3-4 locking biners for anchors Hexes, small cams, big cams, offset nuts, extra tricams and all of that can come later when he has a better idea of what he wants. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. I've been trawling the internet for reviews and tests and most I could find were on OutdoorGearLab and UK Climbing Forums from some years ago. Nylon runners are multi-purposed and can be used for both sport and trad climbing. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. Whether one uses the climbing rope itself or a dedicated length of cord is a personal choice and also depends on the circumstances. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Sup r/trad , I'm a mountaineer looking at getting into more trad climbing and escaping from the climbing gym into the real… Length of service: few weeks Recommend? Definitely. Posted by u/stochastica - 7 votes and 48 comments The bartack isn’t a matter of detail; it’s low profile because it’s made from tubular webbing tucked into itself to close the loop, whereas you cannot get around a bulky overlap with the flat webbing used on the BD slings. In theory, a trad route of a given grade should be similar in physical difficulty to a sport route of the same grade, but will feel harder because of carrying a cumbersome rack, the knowledge and skill needed place gear effectively - and/or the mental control required when opportunities to place gear aren't as frequent as you might like. As for length, 18ft/5. Also a length of tat to bail or make a crazy rats nest anchor. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. Double-length slings (12 cm) can either be racked over the shoulder or clipped to a carabiner and then a gear loop. Consider replacing older slings. 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Currently this is what I typically rack 8 quickdraws (25mm long dyneema dogbones) 4 Shoulder length dyneem alpine draws 1 Double length dyneem sling When I started trad climbing I simply bought 60cm dyneema sling and converted my sport quickdraw into extendable. These long slings help you manage rope drag on wandering alpine routes. You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. The contact slings cost more and aren’t as durable as slings made from flat webbing. Every climber should learn the one-handed clove hitch. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. The bolts were a bit off to one another and to properly pre-equalize the system I used an overhand knot to slightly shorten one of the slings. 1. Now I have 8 extendable. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. Oct 13, 2020 · The Monster Sling is 36% Dyneema, 64% nylon, so it is incredibly strong. If you must use a sling through a thumb loop, connect it as a BASKET HITCH. 5-3 C4 cam size. It also avoids Gasket breakage. You can absolutely do all of that with a couple of long slings, but I like the easy length adjustability. I bought a handful of these to temporarily replace some sus cam slings. Apr 10, 2020 · I do like having 12cm though as I prefer them for sport climbing and don't have two sets of draws. It’s essential in mountaineering, and very quick for the type of personal anchors that create that unique anchor-loading situation. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Quickdraws for trad and ice climbing should have wiregate carabiners and lightweight slings. 5m is standard when you expect no more than 2 pieces, but 8m is more useful for trad anchors where you might have 3 or more pieces. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. 4-4 and a single rack of friends . Luckily slings are a relatively cheap part of your climbing kit and you can always add more as time goes on. I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super flexible. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. Extra long extension or anchors. 1-. But for cleaning sport anchors a couple draws or a single sling is enough. Common gear on the sport loop because it's probably what I'd be climbing first. Add neutral 'biners to your alpine draws. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Really depends on the scenario. The document has moved here. Hopefully most people try to minimize their impact when out climbing or developing areas. Got a single rack of c4s . Review: The quality of the work was of course, great. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. 5mm. Rated to 32kn so even when girth hitched to the thumb loop they’re still… Sport gear on one loop and trad on the other. I'm solid leading 5. This will be her first outdoor climbing experience. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Totems: smallest 4 sizes. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. This will keep the sling full strength and provide extra protection at the thumb When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. Mar 13, 2024 · Bring at least six single-length slings total, and up to twice that for complex terrain with lengthy pitches, or on long routes if an unplanned retreat seems possible. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. 7 but go on about how "sport climbing is neither," but you've also got sport climbers who shit on trad climbers for the precise reasons you've outlined and argue the opposite side of the coin that sport climbing No. honestly i think you can find shitty personalities in every kind of climbing--sure you've got trad dads who won't climb harder than 5. 3 :) No extendable sling :( WC Zero Friends: Mtnoutlet. Also, if you are going to start climbing trad in the future, I'd invest in some triple-length dyneema slings and biners to make your own alpine draws. On here sits all the extra stuff. This is an adventure-biking sub dedicated to the vast world that exists between ultralight road racing and technical singletrack. Aug 18, 2019 · The double-length sling, also known as “shoulder length,” is far and away the most common length, and makes up the majority of the slings on pretty much every traditional climber's rack we know. The totems add confidence in small cracks and pockets. It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. Uneven leg lengths should be adjusted using as much low-stretch material as possible, a doubled or tripled Spectra/Dyneema sling being fairly low stretch Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. 46 votes, 26 comments. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. 5 can vary from 0. Added bonus (if you prefer to lead with a gear sling): you don’t have to compromise on your gear sling’s length and style, significant if you’re of different statures. I have done top rope, lead and trad climbing courses. Bolts, chalk, webbing, bushwacking, clearing vegetation all leave a trace. Posted by u/menge101 - 4 votes and 32 comments there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. After climbing everything goes on any loop and then organised the day after back into the correct loop. Cams (Black Diamond 0. As much as I have to admit it, climbing often leaves a trace. And yes we are scared of falling. I usually bring 3 120s, extension is your friend in easy terrain, rope drag is your enemy. As to trad climbers leaving gear, it is very rare unless you are puting up new lines or adventure climbing. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. Posted by u/Resident-Biscotti366 - 2 votes and no comments I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. That place with mini length climbs and ground fall potential always present. (I. A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. If there is not good beta for the route than bring 1 draw for every 5m on the longest pitch plus a few extras. Going to multi pitch course this year. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. Nov 18, 2016 · Internationally certified mountain guides Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin will teach you the fundamentals of trad climbing in our Intro to Trad 8-week online course. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. WC: Off-fingers to fist size. Imo they are too long for standard Alpine draws. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. If you are constantly climbing 70+ meter pitches, either you are super badass and you don't need advice or you are climbing something so moderate you could probably just simul the few feet. If it’s really wandery I’ll extend even further with either a single-length or (rarely) with a double-length sling. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. Beaners, I use Moses beaners, they are light, skinny so you can rack up heavy on one loop, and still big enough to clove hitch into. girth hitching loses minimum of 50% of sling strength (when used on a biner, when used on something skinner, like a thumb loop of a cam, it will lose even more strength). Apr 3, 2025 · The slings should not be frayed, discolored, or torn, and the sewing should be 100% intact. I have nine 60cm alpine draws, two 120cm slings for roofs, and one 240cm sling for anchors (I have a cordelette as well for multipitch anchors). eg. Alpine draws are the norm for trad climbing on single ropes. are all fair game here. After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. That doesn’t leave any left for the actual climbing. Before I ever led trad I had already "french freed" (plug in a cam and use it as a hand hold) my way through the crux of 9+ that was over my head after climbing all of 4 months. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). Rappel Length: You'll also need to consider the length of rappels on the routes you're climbing. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Im in the process of buying my own equipment for trad climbing so I need like 10 quickdraws, which sums up to be quite expensive. for cleaning sport anchors the pas is better. offsets nuts are really nice to have 2 double length (48") slings: $15-$30 I'd recommend sport climbing outside for a few seasons before you consider getting into trad climbing, its a whole other Mar 1, 2021 · On steep stuff the sling just puts the weight too high on my body. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. The anchors I'm sharing below are for toproping, and not trad, but I think this subreddit is a good place to get opinions from other experienced climbers on anchor safety. The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. Climbing hard pitches over 70m in length is silly because you end up with so much drag or gear you have to place. Black Diamond # of Cams: 34 Length of service: 1 month Recommend? No. These slings are the perfect length to extend a piece of protection so that the rope runs easier with less rope drag. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. Most trad climbers would prefer to make do with whatever's already on their rack (ie slings) for the rappels rather than bringing a bulkier specialty piece. this video )When I'm leading I extend every single piece with at least an alpine draw (not extended if the line is straight) or fully extending the 10 - 12 quickdraws or alpine 'draws: Most trad climbers use alpine 'draws, which are made using a single-length sling (60cm long) or a double-length sling (120cm long) and two carabiners. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. I wouldn't recommend girth hitching slings to the thumb loop. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those Good attitude… depending where you climb at you need to do something different to get good protection. 9). Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. On two bolts I usually clove to the master point of a knotted double length sling. 12s in a few places I've gone. Americans typically use "alpine draws" - extendable with 60 cm slings - because they mostly trad climb on single ropes and need lots of extension to manage drag, gear lifting out etc. 10 votes, 40 comments. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. . What I carry when ice climbing, cragging, multpitch climbing, trad climbing, etc are all different. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Anything I should watch out for? I asked my buddy who is an older trad climber (been climbing for 30 years and climbed 5. 11b/c for sport and TR 5. 3 z4s. Double-length slings provide a whopping four feet of extension and are more useful for rigging and anchors than for extending a single piece of pro. not a great idea. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. When I started leading I had the same fears, I did the "ghetto" aid with nylon slings also. May 18, 2021 · 1 shoulder-length sling Wiregates tend to be a little more versatile than solid-gate ‘biners because of their lighter weight. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. This is an excellent choice for simple multipitch anchors, as it gives a defined masterpoint for working off of, as well as a shelf. Put the color coded 'biners on the matching cams. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. Summit packs are made to sit up high on your back so that you can get to gear on the back of your harness easily. That said , there is usualy degradation in ropes, especially with how well the watherproofing works, so usualy the ropes have a lifecycle starting with ice climbing, then alpine climbing, then trad climbing, then as slings (used for ice, or saxonian climbing). 3 Lockers and a belay plate. When buying draws, try to go for sets in order to save money. For cams and tricams, I keep a defined carabiner on each piece that I clip- if they need to be extended, I carry my single length slings with one biner on them- use the biner already on the cam to clip the sling and use the biner already on the sling to clip the rope Some people throw slings over their shoulder with one biner each to avoid the extras. Most of my cams are used. I would not use a dynamically equalizing system in a belay. More if the route wanders. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. [Before you question why I’ve chosen these two rope, I should mention that each quality (thickness, dry coating, length etc) was chosen for a reason based on the climbing I do and my location. Review: Awesome service! Also the cheapest--$3/re-sling plus they inspect and lube your cams as well! 2. Instead of a cordellette, a 48" sling (double-shoulder length) simplifies the process. I like to take a 60cm aramid sling for friction hitches. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. Think places like lone peak cirque, city of rocks, big and little cottonwood canyons, and some local quartzite and limestone crags. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. 5-6 meters) of webbing can provide you with versatility in constructing anchors. Oh, and I hope that you are aware the internet is not the place to look for that information. The gasket on the rope end carabiner has been replaced by an insert that keeps it vertical and easy to clip. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. The risk of lifting your gear out if you use shorter draws is greater than the risk of cross loading (although there have been accidents caused by that too) For half ropes shorter draws are fine, although thin & floppy is still better than stiff nylon sport draws. 5 years now and I’m slowly working on trimming up my typical rack and making it more efficient. 0 and 18. Used cam red flags: Frayed wires or slings, bent stems, cracked or gouged cam lobes Also been collecting a trad rack for a while and I’m about to purchase the final pieces. The home of Climbing on reddit. -double length sling. In a pinch, you can always put two single length slings together. Then at the anchor, you need only deal with getting the remaining gear from the leader before setting off. This version has 2 arms, one is a fixed length and designed to be used to extend your rappel (though you can use it as an anchor as well), and the other arm is longer with an ascender type device that you can use to adjust the length. Seems to cover nearly all bases. For the Dragons I either use them as they are (in extended mode), or extend just using a regular quickdraw about 80% of the time (extended mode plus a quickdraw already gives about 50cm of extension). If multipitch, those are high profile pieces that I would want on my rack and not wasted on the anchor. This gets you a "minimal single rack". Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. Only thing I wish is that it were the ultralights and zeros throughout since fully l Hello here is a picture of the rack I have built over the last 2 years while trad climbing on granite in Canada! Please also share yours and tell uss why you like it! 6 BD Camelot (The wide and dog attachment system to the crag) Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. I never REALLY trusted my gear until I started falling on it. Hope to get some answers. On a climbing harness already heavy with gear, carrying light draws makes a difference. Yes, a dry coated rope is necessary if you climb primarily sea cliffs. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. ] Thanks for any responses, EDIT: Thanks for all your input guys. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Extend, extend, extend some more. I tend to use a gear sling when trading pitches on multi pitch climbs. The fact that Also take all your 60cm slings also known as "double length slings" and make alpine draws with them and bring those in lieu of regular draws. it depends on where you're climbing. You can easily store this system on your harness. If I buy a 20ft length at 7mm would that be enough? I am not doing much trad climbing, mostly sport, and the quad will be used to set up top rope anchors. It does mean you are limited to full-length extension or direct clipping unless you fiddle around. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. Another option would be to use 2 120cm slings or a whole loop of old-ish climbing rope. Use a double-length sling or cordelette to create an anchor around a solid tree that’s at least five inches in diameter, firmly rooted in the ground, and alive. Posted by u/disforderp - 3 votes and 25 comments Dec 18, 2014 · Guides Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin take you through gear-protected climbing in AIM Adventure U’s Intro to Trad Climbing course. With all the slings on alpine quickdraws and cams (I believe I was seeing Dmm cams had slings permanently stitched together around the cam stems get 2 longer draws (or trad draws) for those wandering routes to reduce drag and for roofs go to store and try clipping/unclipping them get what feels best (and you can afford) i usually recommend the edelrid pure draws for beginners, they are pretty cheap at MEC and look/perform/feel almost exactly like the new petzl spirits I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. A simplified version of the cordelette is commonly used on two bolts. Which I do see myself headed into. Easy to pick up and carry. So long as the original owner hasn’t removed the manufacturer’s label, you can check the date sewn into the small label on the sling to know exactly how old the cam is. 3 to 0. The discussion over nylon vs. If you are going to be doing a few routes that are non-linear, throw in a few trad so you can extend them to reduce rope drag (but take longer falls!). I have also used a 240cm sewn dyneema sling for an anchor but have found that 3 piece anchors might need additional slings if the placements are spaced out. 15 votes, 40 comments. I've never seen a sling bag while out climbing multi p and it strikes me as a poor choice. The WCs are basically C4s with extendable slings, but only go up to fist size. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. On double ropes it's more common to use quickdraws, but even then the requirements for the ideal draw are somewhat different. -Prussik cord with a locker. 6 million pounds. Personally, I don't like climbing with a tether. Very unlikely of course. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. Learning to use the rope for your anchors was the biggest leap I made in trad climbing. The way you have your 60cm draws set up is OK for half length extenders and the extender slings on the cams will be helpful. Get a handful of alpine draws for trad climbing to supplement your quickdraws, get more when you start climbing mountains. Thank you all for feed back! Cant believe how much there is to improve. Visit Intro to Trad to sign up! Tree Anchor. it's dangerous. I'm making this post because I climb at a crag where climbing on other peoples' anchors is commonplace, but there are a lot of inexperienced climbers and sketchy anchors. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. Aug 31, 2020 · Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. When I trad climb, I'll usually carry a few of my standard sport draws with 10cm slings, and well as 4 or 5 extendable draws, made with tripled 60cm slings Reply scenque • • Edited Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. Not that you can't do it, but you will be limited to only a couple routes, so don't get the same exposure that you would want. If you bring a slight twice that length you can wrap it around and clip both ends together with a biner which makes it easy to fetch, even under several layers and a pack. In eastern europe 50m is often enough, but 60 is a safe bet. The sling is sewn at one end which makes it flexible, a good feature for trad climbing. Sep 25, 2020 · Depending on your setup you may only need one 120 sling. I prefer a 7mm cordelette if I am equalizing 3 pieces of gear. The 11mm sling makes a good handhold if needed. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. Find really long draws can sometimes twist or lay funny on the rock, which can be frustrating clipping sport climbing. From what I've read they are all great cams but they all have some small differences: BD Z4s: Rigid flex stem :) Good range for > 0. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. I have done many normal anchors, some anchors to threes, but never before with trad gear. It just tends to get in the way. It depends on the situation. I would have used threes, but didnt have any static rope with me this time. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag For context of the climbing I'm doing, I live in northern utah and climb mostly easy multipitch trad (up to 5. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). I climb at Josh. Think you'd be grand with 18cm draws and alpine draws for the majority of all trad climbing. It also gives you a dynamic element in the case of catching a fall onto the anchor. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. Sep 1, 2023 · Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Anything over 7mm is overkill, and for multi-pitch anchors, I'm even happy with 6mm. I carry a few alpine draws when I climb sport, but when I clean I still go for the PAS to go in direct. Because the space between them was pretty large and my 120cm sling (or double length I heard is called) was creating a larger angle (about 60) I decided to use 2 120 slings. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. I’m thinking of a set of Black Diamond C4 cams from . I also use the slings for trad anchors but most people aren't into building trad anchors with slings, so they might be single purpose for you. Most alpine climbing you'd be doing shouldn't take more than a set of cams and a set of nuts unless you're doing big alpine rock routes like those in the Sierras. Some opinions about this would be great. That said, my ATC, prussik, double length sling and a couple of lockers pretty much never leave my harness. Is it a good idea to buy carabiners only, and make the "sling" out of rope and applying a proper knot? I would of course use proper rope. 0 mm runners. I also use those to make alpine draws with the skinny metolius shoulder length slings. for long trad or alpine routes where there is always a chance of shit hitting the fan, the purcell is a much better option than the pas. For this review, we tested the majority of the slings in single-length. 3 to 3, DMM wallnuts #1-11, and 8 60cm slings and 2 120cm slings. the knot might snag. I have a bunch of quick draws that I can repurpose as alpine draws using runners. The only things I clip with a quick are wired nuts and hexes. If you plan to transition into trad climbing quickly with friends and cost is an issue then the trad draw rack might make sense if your willing to deal with a few fumbling clips. Additionally, the length should allow you to extend the rappel anchor away from any potential rope drag or hazards. Plus, then you would need to buy two sets of slings (dog bones + slings) if you were serious about trad climbing. Whole set goes into the backpack as is unless I'm only doing one type of climbing that day. I say start with 4 and add some if you need it. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ Hello. e. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. All-road, crossover, gravel, monster-cross, road-plus, supple tires, steel frames, vintage bikes, hybrids, commuting, bike touring, bikepacking, fatbiking, single-speeds, fixies, Frankenbikes with ragbag parts and specs, etc. -quad length sling. 786 votes, 149 comments. How strong are they? He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. BD: big cams. I’m building my first trad rack for climbing within a couple hours of the Seattle area, mostly at Index and Leavenworth, Vantage in the winter. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Jul 5, 2020 · I’ve been climbing trad for 2. set of nuts. It is definitely not a necessity, and I'd probably leave it behind on a multi-pitch trad route if weight or minimizing gear was a concern. I use both lengths. I started with 4 which in most cases was enough, I was using extendable only when needed and using my sport draw for when I needed no extension. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. If the metal parts look good, they are good. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. As the title suggests, as someone who's looking to start building a rack, I'm curious as to whether or not long time trad climbers replace every single sling in their kit every few years due to age. if the longest pitch is 40m bring 10. Divide the nuts onto two 'biners. Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Given the fact that the trees are solid and not just spindly bushes or already on the verge of dropping over, a sling around one stem and a locking carabiner should be all you need, make sure your rope does not drag over sharp edges. If multipitch or belaying from above I would use two pieces and a sling just for speed to get my belayer climbing quicker but to each their own on 2 vs 3 pieces. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. You won't use so many sport draws for trad so you can cannibalize 'biners from those. As others have said. As a general guideline, having at least 15-20 feet (4. This, of course isn't a consideration for the sort of stuff that Steph does, but can be an issue in alpine climbing or long multi-pitch climbs. There's no hard rule for sling age, but i replace anything that looks worn or older than 10 years. You're better off with the rope cloved to the other bolt. I tend to use 8. The slings for alpines are fairly cheap on their own. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. 12s on trad) and he said just be thoughtful placing your gear, it shouldn't be too bad. I’m short, so on slabs the gear on the sling tends to end up at my feet. Double length slings. Clip each bolt, clip sling to bolts, equalize, and tie off. owmgnh tvka sfrzv extwfmm daj dvgrblts xzphl hyygvs hfljp ren utzydiysz pynlc jjfoj qcwhlm uingpd